A recent revelation: When I first arrived in Tokyo, one of the most noticeable elements to me in daily life was the distinct smells emanating from seemingly everywhere. Most were foreign, but many I recognized, like fresh bread or coffee. I thought huh, everything just smells more; are they adding yummy scents to everything? This week in my Global Cities class, we discussed different organizations of cities, particularly the fact that Tokyo's infrastructure is highly mixed use, meaning stores, restaurants, housing, supermarkets, etc. are all mixed together. There isn't one designated space for each kind of infrastructure. This creates highly efficient cities, because everything is easily accessible to everyone, and creates more diverse interactions between citizens, leading to more enriching lives. I realized that the streets didn't smell more, it was just that those places that usually have yummy smells were always around me, and walking on the street was an entire sensory experience.
My photography class goes on, and I'm doing my best to make pictures I'm proud of, as the advanced course I'm part of will be holding a public exhibition at the end of the semester in Tokyo's artistic district Harajuku. I headed to Shibuya for these pictures, and aimed to use what I have previously learned about night photography to attempt capturing the bustle of Shibuya's nightlife (this was a Tuesday). After being inspired by another students similar pictures, I decided to give this a go because I enjoy the ghostly effect that crowds take on during a long exposure, and it gives the viewer a sense of all the movement that is occurring. This was tough though, as I had to quickly set up my tripod in the most busy area of Tokyo and awkwardly snap the shutter loudly while obviously pointing my camera at the passersby. I feel accomplished to have gotten the bottom two pictures, as this was perhaps the only high ground which had a view of the main Shibuya crossing and another less major one in the foreground. Right after I got my shots, I was told I had to leave by a security guard.
This week was one of reintegration into school and of new friends. My three main friends hang out in my campus' parliament with a large group of other students often, and I was introduced to them on Friday, when we had a potluck in our dorm and enjoyed the Japan v Korea baseball game where Japan (obviously) won. After realizing I should make the most of the plethora museums nearby and in an attempt to gain inspiration for my own work, I hit the Tokyo Photographic Museum in Ebisu on Saturday. It had 3 exhibitions, one of which I found very successful and inspiring, the other two not so much. The good one featured the work of the late Wasahisa Fukase. It made me want to attempt candid portraiture as well as double exposures or other blur effects. It was right next to the Yebisu Garden Place Tower observation deck which Braden and I had visited, so I rode up to the 38th floor again to check out the view during daytime. On Saturday night, we ate (but simply couldn't finish unfortunately) this giant karaage boat at Chiba Chan. Finally, on Sunday I attempted to picnic for sunset at nearby Tama River with Rachel and Tanner, but it was quite cloudy, and no sun could be found. We also saw a Ferris wheel in the distance, and after investigating rode a gondola over to an amusement park. Due to the time of day and cost of entry, we decided it wasn't worth it to go in though. Also, on Monday I had lunch with another new friend Carlos.
Many of my friends here have asked me if I would ever consider living in Japan long term after this, and I have told them no, but wasn't really sure why... until now. As time goes on, I learn more about the country which slowly tears down its romanticism. I've compiled a list of the reasons why Japan would not be for me, long term. 1: One aspect of Japan that attracted me to it, and likely many others, is its exceptional modernity and embrace of technology. While this leads to the huge step forward for mankind that is bidets with sanitizing stations in almost every bathroom, it also leads to an obsession with gadgets, media, and advertising which becomes toxic, at least to me. The use of media has been pushed to its absolute limits, resulting in everyone being more obsessed than ever with their devices, and more ignorant of the real world. 2: The utmost respect and formality which Japanese culture embodies seems to lead to everyone being closed off from each other, and it is at the point that no one is welcome to openly express feelings. Connection would be very hard. This might explain the absolute carnage which takes place in Shibuya and other areas every weekend, as if everyone is letting off all of their built up energy all at once while they can. Workers here are expected to show absolute compassion for each customer, and even without speaking the language, it's easy to see the discontent truly present beneath this bubbly exterior. 3: On the same topic, wages are actually really not good here, all around- at least if I would want to spend them when visiting America. 4: It's really pretty hard to eat here with special dietary concerns. There are the staple dishes, and you more or less eat these; no vegan restaurants, impossible burgers, or gluten free bread. Of course, it would be easier to inform waiters of allergies if one was fluent. 5: Surprising to me considering the respectful expectation in Japan, the culture is actually very misogynistic. As it applies most directly to my experience, all of my girl friends who have been clubbing emphasize the incessant waves of men who approach them, often grabbing inappropriately and not taking hints. LGBTQ+ individuals are also less accepted here. 6: Many bars and clubs allow cigarette smoking indoors, which I don't want to breathe, and it makes my clothes and even sheets smell bad, necessitating extra washes and undesirable smells everywhere. 7: Many foods have been overly sweetened, and being surprised by an extremely sweet food item which is normally never sweet is quite a common occurrence (perhaps this isn't so different from America). 8: Food portions at grocery stores are very very small, and expiration dates for meats are usually the next day. In this way, it's impossible to buy groceries for the week, and if you want to cook, you should plan on stopping at the store each day, which is a hassle. 9: While I've only drank because I wanted to, I know that in many situations here people are expected to drink if they are offered, and often are forced to drink huge quantities, because it is respectful, or to secure a promotion. Being out of control of my ingesting would be unacceptable to me.
In other news, I've begun wearing earplugs occasionally on train rides. My ears have started to physically hurt from the loud squealing of the trains, as well as many every day activities. I don't know if the loud music at clubs made them hurt, or the loud trains and cars all the time, or maybe I am just imagining it. Nonetheless, it's nice to have some quiet on the commute.
Below: obligatory food and car update
After telling my photography teacher about my blog, he shared with me that he used to blog often, and actually achieved some fame in Japan through it. I've been reading his blog about Japan's massive earthquake 12 years ago, which is really interesting. If you want to check it out, find it at http://barnaclestalking.blogspot.com